Fendi Milan Fashion Week Spring 2016
BIG sleeves and high necks, there was an Edwardian feel to the Fendi collection this afternoon – even slouchy bombers getting a historical and voluminous revamp with billowing leg-of-mutton sleeve action.
It opened in blocks of colour – red, coral, white, and moved on through to teal and black: a Fendi rainbow proving to best show off all the tactility going on here. Pockets and brace details were thickly stitched into place or appeared stapled (but not); cut-outs flashed flesh so that an expanse of back was revealed behind or at the waist; pieces seemed industrially patched together; thick suede latticework for neat boxy jackets; gleaming petals punctuating bodices; there was a distinct historical feel and an armour quality to the pieces. Those flowers weren’t the traditionally pretty variety – their stems had stealth.
But this toughness, this edge, was counterbalanced by those billowing blouses and gowns that invited a breeze to pass on through them. And as always at a Fendi show, the eye is on the lookout for new-season accessories. Here boxy bags held in the hand with just a hint of a strap to slip your fingers through to keep them close at all times – for, let’s face it, you never really want to let a Fendi bag out of your sight.