Emilio Pucci Milan Fashion Week Spring 2016
THERE’S something in the Milanese air at the moment and it’s called change. Alessandro Michele started it at Gucci with his all-shining overhaul and it’s something that’s spread on over to Emilio Pucci, which received an about-turn touch from MSGM creative director Massimo Giorgetti today. An Italian favourite, he’s been a rising star ever since he launched MSGM back in 2009. Known for its – and his – penchant for colour, he seemed the ideal match to take on the Emilio Pucci mantle when Peter Dundas stepped down from the label in March to take over at Roberto Cavalli, at which he’ll make his debut this weekend.
But if you were expecting to see any trace of Dundas’s glamour girl, this is not the place to look anymore. There were odd hints of traditional Pucci in paradise prints on little dresses and spangles did shimmer throughout, but this was aimed at a younger market – and those sparkly bits did so on casual silhouettes of laidback streetwear separates as opposed to thigh-skimming or slit-lined numbers. The sass and glamour that ruled under Dundas’s tenure was replaced instead by the desire for cool and trendy. Which is very much what MSGM does.
But back to that word “mantle”.It’s one that Emilio Pucci, as one of Italy’s heritage houses, does indeed come with and in the past has suffered at the hands of trying to keep up, as it were. Designers have been in and out of its doors – Matthew Williamson among them.
But Giorgetti, who very cheerily took his lap of honour, has already proved what he can do on his own – and time will tell if his existing customer(s) take the bait. And we know it’s really all about the second collection