Versus Versace London Fashion Week Spring 2016

As of now, Versus Versace as you see it here is already on sale online—even as the after-party, with the models and invited kids from far and wide, is still going on in a basement venue in London. With Anthony Vaccarello at the helm as creative director,Donatella Versace has turned Versus into a show-now, buy-now, wear-tomorrow collection, a shortcut to fashion availability which no one else in the designer world has yet quite fully pulled off.

See Collection

But what will people be clicking on to purchase when they wake up tomorrow? Interesting to speculate; Vacarello is a fluent new-generation-channeler of the pulse of Versace. He gets the house codes—the lion-head medallions, the legginess, the body-conscious cutout-and-drape shapes, the tailoring. One thing he has not yet delved into is the color of Versace—he’s a confirmed fan of black in his own collection, and that hue dominated the Versus runway too. However, for the first time there were prints, botanical florals, and fruit patterns, plus such things as printed denim bomber jackets and jeans. It made for an impressively wide range for people all over the world to pick from, and plenty of opportunity for stocking up ahead of year-end parties.

Still, in fashion, the eye always tends to go toward the outliers. In this case, that would be the simplest daywear look: a black leather shirt over tailored, hip-riding masculine pants. Maybe that’s about as far from a stereotypical Versace look as can be imagined—and it stood out, in a good way. Meanwhile, who should be wearing something very similar backstage? Why, Donatella herself, in a narrow pair of black boy-pants and a black T-shirt. Surprise!

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