Jeremy Scott New York Fashion Week 2015
This is your brain. This is your brain on screens. If Jeremy Scott’s latest collection had a subtext—and it’s not clear that it did—it was that our brains are going a little screwy due to overexposure to screens. Check out the insane-looking cartoon faces on Scott’s new intarsia knits: Isn’t that kind of how your mind feels after several consecutive hours of binge-watchingUnREAL while simultaneously answering emails on your laptop and glossing Instagram on your phone?
Anyway. The screen thing was very much an ur-text of Scott’s latest effort, with its digital television prints and trippy sweaters knit to look the way old television screens did when they went a little wonky. That was all part of Scott’s larger theme, which was an homage to sixties era B-movies and sci-fi that he interpreted with his typical heaping of club-kid flash. The era’s tropes were rehearsed in everything from abbreviated A-line silhouettes to ray-gun prints to the paillette mesh that was an overt tip-of-the-hat to Cardin. As usual, Scott seemed to be having more fun making fashion than anyone else on the scene these days, but the lineup’s buoyant tone didn’t disguise the fact that this was a pretty disciplined collection. The men’s looks were eye-popping, but they hewed to classic shapes—guys with some daring in the fashion department might be swayed by a button down in Scott’s scribble print, or a leather biker spotted with white polka dots. Lots of the women’s looks, meanwhile, could appeal to customers outside the Jeremy cult, to wit, the tulle pieces with high-contrast sequin stripes, or summery short sheaths covered in the scribble or raygun prints. A cocktail dress, black on top, with a ribbon at the waist and a bouffant pink and silver brocade skirt, was downright homecoming queen mainstream.
Scott’s rigor was also demonstrated in his materials and his technique. The paillettes on the opening look worn by Gigi Hadid, for instance, were bordered by seed pearl embroidery. And Scott’s deftness with textiles was witnessed best in the very simplest of his ensembles, a matching cropped sweater and miniskirt set down in a cool spongy knit. Nothing looked tossed-off here, in other words, just as nothing looked really, truly nuts. Scott’s experience at Moschino seems to have convinced him there’s some fun to be had, too, in selling tons of clothes.