Anthony Vaccarello culled inspiration for his fall 2015 collection from his recent travels in the American West, and if you think about it, he’s got something of a cowboy sensibility about him: a resolute, unwavering consistency to his convictions (his women will be sexy, they will be leggy, and by God, they will rock and roll—okay, so this is Los Angeles we’re talking about, not Montana, but that’s still technically West). This was the designer’s first collection since officially being appointed creative director of Versus Versace, and Donatella Versace was sitting front row, bookended by brothers Larry and Laurent Bourgeois, the famed Beyoncé backup dancers also known as “Les Twins.” (One hopes they bring news of the collection home to the Beyhive, because Queen Bey would look great in these clothes.)
But back to those convictions: There was more suede than leather this time around, but making a return appearance were the same asymmetrical hems from seasons past that keep the party girls coming back for more. Some were replete with grommeted tiered pleats, a flash of skin between them; some came with a star-shaped silver-rimmed cutout, some with long metal fringed spikes which tinkled invitingly, like a wind chime, and nearly all were short, short, short. “It’s a boyish appeal,” Vaccarello said backstage moments before the show, gesturing at a particularly layered skirt-over-trousers look, “a more American style.” But it was a notably rock-chick approach to androgyny: boyish in the way Debbie Harry is boyish. Which is to say, not really very much at all, except perhaps in attitude. Stars being the major L.A. currency, they were everywhere: spangled clusters of grommets, or those silver-lined cutouts, or creating new angles in the aforementioned wrap skirts. A little literal, sure, but it’s no wonder Vaccarello’s own star is on the rise.