Alexander McQueen often used Asian motifs in his shows. Sarah Burton, his faithful archivist as well as his first assistant, looked back on his interest in kimonos. The result took her latest collection in a (for her) slightly less theatrical direction, majoring in short flared dresses with blown-up chrysanthemum prints, McQueen signature tailoring (sharply flared trousers and caped tops), a passage of pencil-skirted dresses with leather bra tops. Still, there was plenty of the McQueen kink, for those who like it: hard leather cages for bodices, lashed-up gladiator boots with eyewateringly precarious platforms, and shiny black masks outlining every face. One way or another, the rock chicks of the world are going to be in luck next spring.
Burton has a softer, more decorative side too, though. The collection took a more romantic turn when she showed skirts cut like dense poufs of cherry-blossom petals and two pale pink, tiered chiffon dresses with beaded bra tops. Exquisitely pretty.