Sexy, classy, forceful, young. Riccardo Tisci spelled out all those qualities in black-and-white for spring, underscoring them over and over again with an extraordinary level of Parisian workmanship. Cross-lacing, grommets, studded leather, lace and baby-doll dresses—essentially the full gamut of goth—all of it underwent an impressive upgrade. And where did it come from? “Flipper—the old computer pinball game—the black-and-white graphics,” the designer exclaimed backstage. “And Tyrolean dress. Naughty rock girls!”
True, this is the kind of psychic territory Tisci has prowled, on and off, since the beginning of his career, but has never expressed with such sustained conviction and technical refinement until now. Really beautiful treatments of lace-edged dresses with shoulder-baring poet sleeves contrasted with fabulously tooled and studded leather vests. Narrow cutaway riding coats came expertly pieced together with lacing in every seam. For evening, there were yet more incredible coats, ivory caviar–beaded and inserted with black guipure lace. For the finale, Cara Delevingne walked the fairy-tale pièce de résistance: a shimmying, shimmering blur of fit, flare, and flounce. Hands down, it was the most accomplished show of Riccardo Tisci’s career, and ranked at the top of the very best collections of the season.