Thierry Mugler wanted his woman to be superhuman: “bigger, stronger, and taller than lesser mortals.” Today, David Koma’s runway debut was an exercise in eveningwear to delight the tall and strong, but also to celebrate a new, healthier mood that captures fashion’s current interest in performance wear. The casting reinforced this, with Karlie Kloss alongside Georgia May Jagger (whose mother was an original Mugler muse).
The Mugler fascination with the female form was still apparent, but came devoid of camp theatrics and hardcore corsetry. Continuing the sporty pace he established for his resort presentation, Koma sculpted the body with lithe silhouettes—athletic LBDs both long and short came with alluring keyhole cutouts, highlighting numerous erogenous zones from hip to midriff and décolleté. Chrome garter belts traced the lines of the dresses and snaked through jackets. It was also easy to be seduced by his many reduxes of Le Smoking.
Empowered evening did hold sway, but there were gentle daywear nods (an area perhaps he could explore more), with zipper-back midi skirts, abbreviated knits, and sleeveless coats. The latter is poised to be a trophy purchase this season, and a white one has caught the eye of Virginie Courtin-Clarins, the house’s director of marketing and communications development. “It’s a Mugler I can wear every day.” Just add jeans and an easy flat.