Victoria Beckham Spring 2015 New York Fashion Week
Victoria Beckham is getting ready to open her first store, on Dover Street in London—a business milestone that makes every designer think hard about what sort of clothes and accessories will fill a flagship. “It’s forced me to readdress my signatures,” she said at a preview. “I like the idea of an eclectic uniform.” Let it be said that there’s a whole collection of variants on the form-fitting dresses Victoria Beckham was initially known for, lined up in the wings for delivery. But on the runway, she is working steadily and methodically to extend her repertoire well beyond her formula for cocktails and events.
“I wanted it to be neat, long, and lean,” she said of her spring wardrobing proposition: coats and coat-dresses in natural beige-colored jute, midi-length rib-knit dresses and jersey skirts with fluted hemlines banded with a single horizontal stripe, her take on pantsuits, and, at the end, a surprise, cheerfully summery Lilly Pulitzer–ish floral print.
If there was a hint of uniform, it might have been in the safari-influenced pockets on her jackets—but perhaps Mrs. Beckham is thinking less literally when she uses that word, and more in the sense of a city uniform for women of her own generation. Still, what counts more than any concept or theory is the fact that she is so fussy about how her clothes fit and are made in her impressive atelier in London. “I’m always thinking beyond the catwalk to the customer,” she said. Small things matter to her: the flattering, slightly raised waist on the tailoring, how some pieces were constructed from alternating bands of leather and fabric, and so on. Also—and this may be an extra selling point when these clothes hit her new store—Beckham is not the kind of lady who thinks fashion should be totally esoteric. Subtle in-built devices for showing a bit of body include cutaway backs and long, leg-baring slits in the back of skirts. “I think,” she said, “it’s got to be sexy, too, no?”