When describing his fall collection for Hermès, Christophe Lemaire kept using the word wild. Which only goes to show you how deeply entrenched in the Hermès culture he is. He defines wild as tone-on-tone printed silk daytime pajamas with a toffee-colored fur coat thrown on top.
Others might call it elegant, rich, classic, indulgent, or discreet. But regardless of what term you apply, it simply is this: exactly what you want from Hermès. It’s luxe. Lemaire has been creating collections over the last few seasons that personify this idea of incredibly fine quality and craftsmanship. What he’s also brought is a fluidity and simplicity, in beautiful circle skirts done in exotic skins like croc and strong, minimal coats in beautiful hues like this season’s wool version in sage. That said, a standout piece this season was the sleeveless, loose cream shift, ever so lightly embroidered in an abstract floral pattern. It was a departure from theme that worked.
Shoes were kept to a stack-heeled sandal, a tassel loafer, and a flat boot. Wild? Not if you ask the street-style peacocks outside the shows. But that’s not necessarily who Lemaire’s making clothes for anyway. “They’re not fashion soldiers,” he said of those he’s dressing. “They’re women.”