WITH a starting point of Anglo-Scottish, it’s no wonder MaxMara sent out a parade of tweeds and herringbone checks this morning, but the surprise was to be found in the shapes and techniques. These weren’t made for the rolling hills of the great outdoors but rather for city streets and for storming pavements.
MaxMara is an innovative house where fabrics are concerned, to that end came shearling and alpaca coats; two things we have seen a lot of already this season – but not handled like this: they came quilted or printed in plaid, which offered a sporty edge to looks.
There wasn’t a single pair of trousers on the runway, which was surprising given the boyish, metropolitan feeling that this collection oozed. To emphasise that point on masculinity, a gentleman’s tie proved a novel way to cinch a trench coat. But focus here was squarely on rigorously cut midi skirts.
The palette centred around MaxMara’s iconic camel, heather and grey – described as “London fog” – and warming hits of rust and crocodile stamped gold. An aggressive black patent also helped to modernise. It appeared again and again as an accent on the reverse of looks, offering a tantalising back view.
Customers looking for coats, the bread and butter of MaxMara’s business will find several pleasing options here, but the hit in tailoring was the waistcoat, or rather, a long-line sleeveless jacket. Come autumn, MaxMara proposed it as the ultimate layering device.