Fendi Milan Fashion Week 2014
WHO will wear that little Fendi bag first? That gimmicky minaudiere that Cara Delevingne stepped out with, dangling from her finger, as though it were a fine bone china teacup. It was a fuzzy Karl Lagerfeld doll, complete with black sunglasses, glossy white ponytail with an added extra – a spiky pink fur Mohican. It had cult status written all over it.
This was a hit collection from Fendi, which can best be described as a luxe pile-up of layers. Heavy-duty parkas in stiffened wool (the kind that feel terribly uncomfortable, but look terrifically good because they hold their shape so well) were put together with army jackets or caplets and a shrug of fox fur bucked to one side. Below were more of those drop-waisted skirts that we have witnessed on more than one occasion already (that look is shaping up to be a big silhouette for autumn).
Lagerfeld’s designs had the swish and grandeur of riding skirts but were executed in techy taffeta with sporty mesh pockets and sometimes, chunky zips. There was a military feeling at play here, coupled with something innately urban – like the way he took details from a bomber jacket and rendered it into a strapless dress. It shouldn’t have worked – but it did.
A paint splatter print on white leather tracksuit trousers had an artist-in-residence feel which took away some of the seriousness of all those furs – long sable coats, gargantuan fur hats-slash-hoods – it felt youthful and importantly, lots to excite editorial and top-spending clients alike.