CHANEL SPRING/SUMMER 2014 HAUTE COUTURE
TRAINERS took to the couture catwalk for the second time this week as Karl Lagerfeld gave his seal of approval to the current sports-streetwear zeitgeist and showed us a Chanel collection fit for the most sophisticated of skater girls.
“I never want anyone to wear anything that they don’t want to wear but I think this is a very sophisticated way to dress,” declared Karl after the show, Lily Allen and Tilda Swinton there to congratulate him. Jewelled knee pads, bumbags and elbow guards aside – making for quite the new take on luxury accessories – this was also a collection about rediscovering the waist.
“I felt it was time to see the waist again,” said Karl. And so he began the collection with the standard set of Chanel feathered and jewelled tweeds but cut so that jackets were cropped and skirts were low on the hip and the waist itself became clearly defined like the neck of a vase.
It was a design trick he employed throughout: be it through contrasting pastel candy shades to those of the rest of the outfit; sequins later on for a run of Black Swan gowns with feathers darting from them in every direction (and which we’ll no doubt see Amanda Harlech stepping out in soon), or for a line-up of pearly iridescent dresses at the end. But there was never any flesh on show so as to keep it demure and, most importantly, sophisticated.
Cara Delevingne – who also opened the show – made for the Chanel bride, complete with her own little page boy, Hudson Kroenig, to hold her train; another style note that Karl had made use of elsewhere via long and sheer house coats, worn trailing behind the models.
And just as Raf Simons at Dior yesterday had made us rethink traditions and show us that couture is getting a new, young customer, so too did Karl – his models skipping and running down the stairs of their catwalk, their feet trainer-clad and their Sam McKnight-coiffed hair a halo of spikes while their lower eyelids glistened with jewels. With Sebastien Tellier and his orchestra band playing in the background, it was more like these girls were going out to play.
Source : VOGUE