Alexander McQueen WOMEN’S PRE-AUTUMN/WINTER 2014

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The house’s codes are upheld, but renewed: eased, elongated and reduced with a nod to Nineties tailoring and layering.

The silhouette is sinuous but never constricting.

Tailoring is borrowed from menswear. Long-line double-breasted jackets have a high rolled shoulder and slender waist. Trousers are pleat-fronted and slouchy, with an extra-wide leg and exaggerated cuff. Panels of leaf jacquard satin, basting and an ivory washed silk lapel discretely disrupt surfaces.

Skirts and dresses are languid, have deepV-necklines and fall to just above the ankle, skimming the body. Seams are sliced and edged with metal embroideries. Jacquards are woven with stylised silver flowers. Panels of heavy washed satin hover on a base of silk tulle. Lace and lingerie details – crinolines, petticoats and camisoles – are further embellished with rows of crushed frills and ruffles: Victoriana undone.

Oversized, trapeze line coats and fur perfecto jackets emphasise a play between the masculine and the feminine, the haute and the humble

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