There was a lot of smoke and mirrors at the Saint Laurent collection, or make that a formation of light-spangled triangles of steel on an immense scaffold infrastructure that swung in mechanized unison to create a visual parting of the waves as a remix of Liars’ punky “Mr Your On Fire Mr” thumped out over the state-of-the-art sound system. First girl out was Edie Campbell, who sulked and stomped her way down the runway wearing a spangled mini with eighties shoulders, patent ankle boots, a Mod shag, black winged eyeliner, and an expression of supreme indifference.
Hedi Slimane seemed to have had fun rifling through the YSL archives, and riffing on some random looks—like an East Village or Williamsburg hipster pulling pieces from a well-curated local vintage store to wear to a rave that night. Finds? A dress in that classic Rive Gauche lip print, from Saint Laurent’s notorious 1940s redux collection at the turn of the seventies, perhaps? Or a crazy eighties gown in pewter or golden lamé, like the ones once so beloved of Catherine Deneuve and a slew of Middle-Eastern glamazons? Why not slice the hem super-short—preferably at an acute angle—and pair it with one of those low-heeled ankle boots, or a Memphis color-block stiletto and a Lurex pop sock?