IT was round two for Alexander Wang at Balenciaga this morning as he showcased his second collection for the house since being appointed creative director in November last year. Having taken on undoubtedly one of the biggest jobs in fashion, last season he played it safe. His head having well and truly soaked up the archive, he presented a considered collection that made a nod to the house hallmarks, both in terms of Cristobal’s signatures and of the man who had made it very much his own for the past 15 years – Nicolas Ghesquière.
Today there were again the classic Cristobal shapes that felt part of the Balenciaga language – cropped and curved proportions for jackets – and nods to Ghesquiere’s synergy in peplum skirt-shorts. House classics were manifested in contemporary woven fabrics and perforated leather and there was the sense of size we’ve come to expect – big on top, small below – alongside Ghesquière’s trick of repeating an idea several times.
It’s fair to say that this collection continued in the same safe territory as the first. While finding his feet at the house, he’s clearly working within its tried and tested framework of Balenciaga ideas: sportswear reimagined in a luxury way, and vice versa.